Night Bus to Delhi
From India to the U.S.A. (with some Tibetan poems between the two)
Tibetan Poems in English
Since 1959....
Dorjee Gyaltsen.
What have we been since 1959?
Remembrance of the year 1959
It's not simply to be kept in our mind,
That which has kept us as a refugee since 1959.
The martyrs, brothers and sister of ours,
Were they dying for their own sake since 1959?
Thousands of orphans coming across Himalaya
With the truth in their eyes to plead to the world since 1959.
Have we ever asked our self who is his holiness?
Did we reincarnate him to serve us like a servant?
Because even in his 70's he gets no time to rest,
For the sake of his masters, we greedy Tibetans.
He extends every possible help to us since 1959
With the huge expectation of finding our own path.
But, we seems satisfied with being recipients
In the name of ''Refugee'' as we have done since 1959.
Realizing the mistakes we have committed since 1959,
Even his trusted seeds of ours future are now in the street of foreign countries.
Leaving his every dream in complete since 1959
My country man! Have we ever truly committed to his teaching since 1959?
His dreams are not just for himself since 1959
But for me, you and for our country.
Would it be right to let him work all day long?
Even in his 70's he gets not time to rest.
My country men and women,
Aren't we satisfied with his life long gift since 1959???
TIBET...?
[ Kalsang Gyatso..
TIBET...
Once a free and happy land,
The direful effects of red communist
It is no longer as it is!
Industries and buildings are highly decorated.
Saying that this is the image of new Tibet!
But, human rights and freedom were rotten,
under the baked rumors of Chinese govt.
My country served whole days for red communist,
without a rupee reward.
They murder, rape, demolish but still they propagate,
TIBET is safe....
But in reality TIBET IS DYING.....!!
Culture, religion are a sole identity for the birth of nation,
In Tibet china pressurized for the elimination of these concepts.
Exile, Dalai Lama...
We live and survived under the guidance of Dalai Lama
and, unwavering support of INDIAN Govt.
Still, I can no longer stand.
My soul is vexed within me so,
to think that I am refugee, a slave.
Genuine autonomy is the truth we hold.
But still they accused of Independence we fight for.
We never expect for territory only,
We expect love and peace for our souls too.
O! Chen ra siz,* will you not pity us.
You had strived day and night for the happiness of ours.
Still we lacked determination to follow you.
Tears roll down from my cheeks,
blood remains cold in my veins,
when I saw you doing so much for us.
But still in my hand I only owe long white kathak*
To say thank you for your lifelong sacrifice for our nation....
VOICE OF FREEDOM
Tenzin Dakpa
Thunder and lightning were flashing in air.
Bullet and Blood were no less than Rain.
Land of Peace turnout into pieces.
When Dragon entered in the land of snow.
With the power of weapon and arms.
Land of snow became land of sorrow.
Land of Lamas became land of lamp less.
Land of Roof became land of roofless.
The dragon entered like a robber.
Mercilessly killed thousands of my country mates.
The Chinese transfer into Tibet and marginalization of Tibetan people.
No Freedom to preservation of Tibetan identity, culture, religious and so on.
Now the spot light is on you dragon.
It is time to take great leap forward to negotiate.
Honestly and sincerely with the Dalai Lama for just,
Honorable and harmonious resolution to the Tibet situation.
Freedom and culture preservation is basic right of one country.
So I appeal to the people of the world.
Have an eagle eye on the Tibet situation.
Support not for the Tibet cause but for the truth and justices.
Tibetan family / March 10th / SFT interview
March 10th was Uprising Day. (pictures from the march around Dharamsala available in the gallery) There was a large crowd gathered in front of His Holiness’s residence by 7:00 am. Security was extensive. There were two separates lines – one for foreigners and one for non-foreigners. Essentially…everyone who looked like they weren’t Tibetan had to go to the foreigner line. There were metal detectors set up and several security guards to pat people down and make sure no one was carrying in weapons, cameras, or phones. People with press passes were allowed to bring in (video) cameras. I was able to sneak in my camera phone (photos available in gallery – though I wasn’t able to get anything fantastic). The Dalai Lama gave his most aggressive speech concerning Chinese occupation to date. Here it is:
Today is the fiftieth anniversary of the Tibetan people’s peaceful uprising against Communist China’s repression in Tibet. Since last March widespread peaceful protests have erupted across the whole of Tibet. Most of the participants were youths born and brought up after 1959, who have not seen or experienced a free Tibet. However, the fact that they were driven by a firm conviction to serve the cause of Tibet that has continued from generation to generation is indeed a matter of pride. It will serve as a source of inspiration for those in the international community who take keen interest in the issue of Tibet. We pay tribute and offer our prayers for all those who died, were tortured and suffered tremendous hardships, including during the crisis last year, for the cause of Tibet since our struggle began.
Around 1949, Communist forces began to enter north-eastern and eastern Tibet (Kham and Amdo) and by 1950, more than 5000 Tibetan soldiers had been killed. Taking the prevailing situation into account, the Chinese government chose a policy of peaceful liberation, which in 1951 led to the signing of the 17-point Agreement and its annexure. Since then, Tibet has come under the control of the People’s Republic of China. However, the Agreement clearly mentions that Tibet’s distinct religion, culture and traditional values would be protected.
Between 1954 and 1955, I met with most of the senior Chinese leaders in the Communist Party, government and military, led by Chairman Mao Zedong, in Beijing. When we discussed ways of achieving the social and economic development of Tibet, as well as maintaining Tibet’s religious and cultural heritage, Mao Zedong and all the other leaders agreed to establish a preparatory committee to pave the way for the implementation of the autonomous region, as stipulated in the Agreement, rather than establishing a military administrative commission. From about 1956 onwards, however, the situation took a turn for the worse with the imposition of ultra-leftist policies in Tibet. Consequently, the assurances given by higher authorities were not implemented on the ground. The forceful implementation of the so-called “democratic” reforms in the Kham and Amdo regions of Tibet, which did not accord with prevailing conditions, resulted in immense chaos and destruction. In Central Tibet, Chinese officials forcibly and deliberately violated the terms of the 17-point Agreement, and their heavy-handed tactics increased day by day. These desperate developments left the Tibetan people with no alternative but to launch a peaceful uprising on 10 March 1959. The Chinese authorities responded with unprecedented force that led to the killing, arrests and imprisonment of tens of thousands of Tibetans in the following months. Consequently, accompanied by a small party of Tibetan government officials including some Kalons (Cabinet Ministers), I escaped into exile in India. Thereafter, nearly a hundred thousand Tibetans fled into exile in India, Nepal and Bhutan. During the escape and the months that followed they faced unimaginable hardship, which is still fresh in Tibetan memory.
Having occupied Tibet, the Chinese Communist government carried out a series of repressive and violent campaigns that have included “democratic” reform, class struggle, communes, the Cultural Revolution, the imposition of martial law, and more recently the patriotic re-education and the strike hard campaigns. These thrust Tibetans into such depths of suffering and hardship that they literally experienced hell on earth. The immediate result of these campaigns was the deaths of hundreds of thousands of Tibetans. The lineage of the Buddha Dharma was severed. Thousands of religious and cultural centres such as monasteries, nunneries and temples were razed to the ground. Historical buildings and monuments were demolished. Natural resources have been indiscriminately exploited. Today, Tibet’s fragile environment has been polluted, massive deforestation has been carried out and wildlife, such as wild yaks and Tibetan antelopes, are being driven to extinction.
These 50 years have brought untold suffering and destruction to the land and people of Tibet. Even today, Tibetans in Tibet live in constant fear and the Chinese authorities remain constantly suspicious of them. Today, the religion, culture, language and identity, which successive generations of Tibetans have considered more precious than their lives, are nearing extinction; in short, the Tibetan people are regarded like criminals deserving to be put to death. The Tibetan people's tragedy was set out in the late Panchen Rinpoche's 70,000-character petition to the Chinese government in 1962. He raised it again in his speech in Shigatse in 1989 shortly before he died, when he said that what we have lost under Chinese communist rule far outweighs what we have gained. Many concerned and unbiased Tibetans have also spoken out about the hardships faced by the Tibetan people. Even Hu Yaobang, the Communist Party Secretary, when he arrived in Lhasa in 1980, clearly acknowledged these mistakes and asked the Tibetans for their forgiveness. Many infrastructural developments such as roads, airports, railways, and so forth, which seem to have brought progress to Tibetan areas, were really done with the political objective of sinicising Tibet at the huge cost of devastating the Tibetan environment and way of life.
As for the Tibetan refugees, although we initially faced many problems such as great differences of climate and language and difficulties earning our livelihood, we have been successful in re-establishing ourselves in exile. Due to the great generosity of our host countries, especially India, Tibetans have been able to live in freedom without fear. We have been able to earn a livelihood and uphold our religion and culture. We have been able to provide our children with both traditional and modern education, as well as engaging in efforts to resolve the Tibet issue. There have been other positive results too. Greater understanding of Tibetan Buddhism with its emphasis on compassion has made a positive contribution in many parts of the world.
Immediately after our arrival in exile we began to work on the promotion of democracy in the Tibetan community with the establishment of the Tibetan Parliament-in-Exile in 1960. Since then, we have taken gradual steps on the path to democracy and today our exile administration has evolved into a fully functioning democracy with a written charter of its own and a legislative body. This is indeed something we can all be proud of.
Since 2001, we have instituted a system by which the political leadership of Tibetan exiles is directly elected through procedures similar to those in other democratic systems. Currently, the directly-elected Kalon Tripa's (Cabinet Chairperson) second term is underway.Consequently, my daily administrative responsibilities have reduced and today I am in a state of semi-retirement. However, to work for the just cause of Tibet is the responsibility of every Tibetan, and I will uphold this responsibility.
As a human being my main commitment is in the promotion of human values; this is what I consider the key factor for a happy life at the individual level, family level and community level. As a religious practitioner, my second commitment is the promotion of inter-religious harmony. My third commitment is of course the issue of Tibet due to my being a Tibetan with the name of the ‘Dalai Lama’, but more importantly it is due to the trust that Tibetans both inside and outside Tibet have placed in me. These are the three important commitments, which I always keep in mind.
In addition to looking after the well being of the exiled Tibetan community, which they have done quite well, the principal task of the Central Tibetan Administration has been to work towards the resolution of the issue of Tibet. Having laid out the mutually beneficial Middle-Way policy in 1974, we were ready to respond to Deng Xiaoping when he proposed talks in 1979. Many talks were conducted and fact-finding delegations dispatched. These, however, did not bear any concrete results and formal contacts eventually broke off in 1993.
Subsequently, in 1996-97, we conducted an opinion poll of the Tibetans in exile, and collected suggestions from Tibet wherever possible, on a proposed referendum, by which the Tibetan people were to determine the future course of our freedom struggle to their full satisfaction. Based on the outcome of the poll and the suggestions from Tibet, we decided to continue the policy of the Middle-Way.
Since the re-establishment of contacts in 2002, we have followed a policy of one official channel and one agenda and have held eight rounds of talks with the Chinese authorities. As a consequence, we presented a Memorandum on Genuine Autonomy for the Tibetan People, explaining how the conditions for national regional autonomy as set forth in the Chinese constitution would be met by the full implementation of its laws on autonomy. The Chinese insistence that we accept Tibet as having been a part of China since ancient times is not only inaccurate but also unreasonable. We cannot change the past no matter whether it was good or bad. Distorting history for political purposes is incorrect.
We need to look to the future and work for our mutual benefit. We Tibetans are looking for a legitimate and meaningful autonomy, an arrangement that would enable Tibetans to live within the framework of the People’s Republic of China. Fulfilling the aspirations of the Tibetan people will enable China to achieve stability and unity. From our side, we are not making any demands based on history. Looking back at history, there is no country in the world today, including China, whose territorial status has remained forever unchanged, nor can it remain unchanged.
Our aspiration that all Tibetans be brought under a single autonomous administration is in keeping with the very objective of the principle of national regional autonomy. It also fulfils the fundamental requirements of the Tibetan and Chinese peoples. The Chinese constitution and other related laws and regulations do not pose any obstacle to this and many leaders of the Chinese Central Government have accepted this genuine aspiration. When signing the 17-point Agreement, Premier Zhou Enlai acknowledged it as a reasonable demand. In 1956, when establishing the Preparatory Committee for the “Tibet Autonomous Region”, Vice-Premier Chen Yi pointing at a map said, if Lhasa could be made the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region, which included the Tibetan areas within the other provinces, it would contribute to the development of Tibet and friendship between the Tibetan and Chinese nationalities, a view shared by the late Panchen Rinpoche and many educated Tibetans, cadres among them. If Chinese leaders had any objections to our proposals, they could have provided reasons for them and suggested alternatives for our consideration, but they did not. I am disappointed that the Chinese authorities have not responded appropriately to our sincere efforts to implement the principle of meaningful national regional autonomy for all Tibetans, as set forth in the constitution of the People’s Republic of China.
Quite apart from the current process of Sino-Tibetan dialogue having achieved no concrete results, there has been a brutal crackdown on the Tibetan protests that have shaken the whole of Tibet since March last year. Therefore, in order to solicit public opinion as to what future course of action we should take, the Special Meeting of Tibetan exiles was convened in November 2008. Efforts were made to collect suggestions, as far as possible, from the Tibetans in Tibet as well. The outcome of this whole process was that a majority of Tibetans strongly supported the continuation of the Middle-Way policy. Therefore, we are now pursuing this policy with greater confidence and will continue our efforts towards achieving a meaningful national regional autonomy for all Tibetans.
From time immemorial, the Tibetan and Chinese peoples have been neighbours. In future too, we will have to live together. Therefore, it is most important for us to co-exist in friendship with each other.
Since the occupation of Tibet, Communist China has been publishing distorted propaganda about Tibet and its people. Consequently, there are, among the Chinese populace, not many who have a true understanding about Tibet. It is, in fact, very difficult for them to find the truth. There are also ultra-leftist Chinese leaders who have, since last March, been undertaking a huge propaganda effort with the intention of setting the Tibetan and Chinese peoples apart and creating animosity between them. Sadly, as a result, a negative impression of Tibetans has arisen in the minds of some of our Chinese brothers and sisters. Therefore, as I have repeatedly appealed before, I would like once again to urge our Chinese brothers and sisters not to be swayed by such propaganda, but, instead, to try to discover the facts about Tibet impartially, so as to prevent divisions among us. Tibetans should also continue to work for friendship with the Chinese people.
Looking back on 50 years in exile, we have witnessed many ups and downs. However, the fact that the Tibet issue is alive and the international community is taking growing interest in it is indeed an achievement. Seen from this perspective, I have no doubt that the justice of Tibet's cause will prevail, if we continue to tread the path of truth and non-violence.
As we commemorate 50 years in exile, it is most important that we express our deep gratitude to the governments and peoples of the various host countries in which we live. Not only do we abide by the laws of these host countries, but we also conduct ourselves in a way that we become an asset to these countries. Similarly, in our efforts to realise the cause of Tibet and uphold its religion and culture, we should craft our future vision and strategy by learning from our past experience.
I always say that we should hope for the best, and prepare for the worst. Whether we look at it from the global perspective or in the context of events in China, there are reasons for us to hope for a quick resolution of the issue of Tibet. However, we must also prepare ourselves well in case the Tibetan struggle goes on for a long time. For this, we must focus primarily on the education of our children and the nurturing of professionals in various fields. We should also raise awareness about the environment and health, and improve understanding and practice of non-violent methods among the general Tibetan population.
I would like to take this opportunity to express my heartfelt gratitude to the leaders and people of India, as well as its Central and State Governments, who despite whatever problems and obstacles they face, have provided invaluable support and assistance over the past 50 years to Tibetans in exile. Their kindness and generosity are immeasurable. I would also like to express my gratitude to the leaders, governments and peoples of the international community, as well as the various Tibet Support Groups, for their unstinting support.
May all sentient beings live in peace and happiness!
The speech was very well received by everyone at the event. However, there was a slight frustration among a number of Tibetans when many Westerners stood up to see the Dalai Lama exit. Tibetans shouted, “Mar-ray”, which means “sit down” in Tibetan. It was actually a bit funny to see the different cultures clash in front of the Dalai Lama.
As soon as I left the temple to get my camera from the hotel that my professor stored it in for safekeeping I was blocked by a massive crowd of people shouting phrases like, “Shame on China,” and “Long live the Dalai Lama.” This was the beginning of the march that would walk down the mountain to lower Dharamsala – approximately a two mile walk. I joined a select group of others in shoving our way through the crowd to get to where we needed to go. I finally made it to a clearing where I was able to make a mad dash for my camera.
By the time I grabbed my camera and made it back down to the temple – there was no one in sight. I started running down the mountain to catch up with the march. Soon enough I found everyone continuing to shout and hold up Tibetan flags.
There were a significant number of Westerners who participated in the march. A few of us seemed to share similar sentiments about shouting some of the phrases – such as “Tibet is our country.” We support the Tibetan cause, but it’s only our fight to a certain degree. I don’t mean to speak for all Western supporters of Tibet, but I personally feel like there are boundaries that we should consider when supporting the Tibetan cause. I am clearly not Tibetan; I just support the idea of a Free Tibet. I think it’s important to not lose sight of the fact that this fight belongs to Tibetans. We can help…but I think there is a dangerous line of personally identifying with the Tibetan cause that I think is inappropriate to cross. For a loose example…one Saturday night – there was a folk singer playing a small show within audible distance from my home stay. She was singing the lyrics, “Free Tibet. Liberate me now.” Certainly, her heart is in the right place. However…from whom does she need liberating? Firstly, the Dalai Lama insists that we are the only people who can liberate ourselves. There can be no “liberating” someone else – at least not through a Buddhist perspective. Secondly, she was singing this song quite loudly in a highly residential area. I bet if she were trying to fall asleep early in order to wake up for 5 am prayers at the temple…she might be wishing someone would liberate her from the music that was preventing her from falling asleep. (of course, maybe the Tibetan Buddhists are a bit more forgiving)
The march ended in lower Dharamsala – where a number of Tibetan activists and leaders gave speeches. A large number of students from Tibetan Children’s Village (TCV) were present at the march and in their uniform. This was a school day. I think the fact that the students were encouraged by the school to attend the march shows how pervasive the cause for Tibetan freedom is in Tibetan culture. Everyone in the Tibetan community seems to identify with this cause. I think it can be hard for some Westerners to relate to the scale of this shared vision. This didn’t feel or look like any other protest. In the U.S. – students do not usually get out school so they can march in support of some cause – like preventing A.I.D.S., finding a cure for Cancer, or for freeing Tibet. To some extent…this didn’t feel like a protest. It was so much more. This “cause” for Tibetan freedom has become more than something one supports…it has seemingly become a staple of Tibetan identity.
Living in Dharamsala
The host family I live with is incredible. The family consists of a mother, father, and three brothers – ages 16, 17, and 18. There is another son who is 24, but he lives quite far away. I’ve never met him. It seems as though the family does not contact him very often. In fact, I’ve only heard him mentioned once. I’m not sure what the deal is with that.
The family actually seems like a traditional American family. They watch A LOT of television. It’s literally on all the time when I’m with the family. I’m not sure if they turn it off when I leave or not. They also have a black dog named Max. This is bittersweet for me since I have a black dog back home named Max. It’s great to spend time with their dog, but it reminds me of missing my own dog.
The family sleeps and lives upstairs. I have a room downstairs. I eat all my meals with the family except when I eat lunch with our class during the weekdays. Every meal consists of at least two large plates of rice. It usually comes with a side of paneer, vegetables, or dhal. Last night I had liver. I didn’t know what it was until one of the sons told me. I was excited to see meat on my plate, but then of course immediately thought that the beef tasted quite strange. I didn’t say anything because I wanted to be polite, but I have to admit that it tasted even worse after I knew what it was. It’s impossible to tell the mother that I don’t like something. She’s so endearing. It’s also very difficult to tell her I’m full. She piles my plate four inches high with rice. Before I even finish – after making a slight dent…she asks, “Little bit more?” with a hopeful smile. I can’t deny her hospitality. So I eat another gallon of rice – (enough to convince her that I actually am full)…and say, “shimbo dew,” which means “delicious” in Tibetan. She smiles and lets me stop eating.
The father loves to watch wrestling. Not collegiate wrestling – the kind of wrestling that involves somewhat detailed characters and plotlines. I’m not interested in watching it, but watching the father watch it is quite amusing to me. I never would have thought that this Tibetan Buddhist who wakes up early every morning for prayers and tries to explain Buddhist concepts and literature to me on a regular basis would be interested in such a violent and rather simple show. My assumptions have been quickly thrown out the door…and slammed with a steel chair from the audience.
The boys are also very interested in fighting, but are more fascinated with technical martial arts forms. They consistently debate on whether or not Bruce Lee would win a fight against Jackie Chan or Jet Li. Bruce always wins. I asked them about whether or not Chuck Norris would beat Bruce Lee. They don’t know who Chuck Norris is, but concluded that Bruce Lee would win. I agree, but the Texan in me is still a bit skeptical.
A couple of nights ago the cable went out. It was very funny to see how quickly the family dynamic changed. The mother constantly commented on how silent it was without the television, which made the silence much more awkward, but still amusing. They complained about how they pay the cable man every month but when they call with a problem he never comes in a timely manner. This Tibetan Buddhist family who lives half a world away from my family sounds exactly like my grandma.
There is a gym pretty close by to where the family lives. It’s very small, but it only costs 150 rupees a month, which is $3.00 U.S. – so I’m not complaining one bit. Of course…the equipment is very rusty…and some of it doesn’t function the way it should – making a lot of the exercises a bit dangerous. But beggars can’t be choosers – I’m just so grateful to have weights to lift. Of course…these weights are in kg and not in lbs…so it’s a bit difficult to measure how much weight I’m actually lifting sometimes…but I don’t care. I’m starting to love this place. (pictures of the gym available in gallery).
I love living with the family so much that I’m thinking about trying to work out a situation so I can live with them during the independent research section of the program. I will be doing my research here in Mcleoud Ganj on what the CTA’s vision for an autonomous Tibet actually looks like and how such a vision would be pragmatically carried out to function effectively. We’re given a stipend to so we can find lodging on our own, but I think it would be good to extend my stay with the family.
Also...three of us discovered that Mcleoud has a rather organized dog society that becomes very obvious around 10 or 11 pm. Three of us were hanging out on the roof of one of one of our home stay family’s house. It was around 10:30 pm and we were just talking. Then…almost instantly…we saw a large number of dogs start walking the streets. One dog walked by a small house, sat, and waited. Then a few minutes later another dog came out of the house and two walked down the street together. It was as if this was routine…or as if the first dog had signaled to the second dog that it was time to hit up the town.
Two rather large dogs walked by where we were sitting. They looked up at us from the street and then walked up the stairs. We were a bit nervous because we heard the dogs can become much more aggressive at night – and of course some of the dogs are rabid. The dogs came up to the roof…sniffed a bit…and laid down. They were completely silent. We continued to shoot the breeze and entertain our fantasies about this dog society for about half an hour. When we got up to leave…the two dogs followed us down. Then they walked over to another dog and appeared to have a brief conversation. Then one of the dogs approached us. It felt a bit awkward…as if we had just been caught trying to eavesdrop on their conversation, which we were completely guilty of doing. I suppose the dog forgave us. He escorted us out of what must have been their particular dog gang territory. We all went in separate directions after the dog left us to our own. We have plans to go back and visit that very protective, amiable pack soon.
On a side note…this is the longest I’ve gone in about 8 years without playing guitar or going surfing. Homesickness is showing its beastly head.
Interview with deputy director of Students for a Free Tibet
“We didn’t choose our exile. I’d rather be born in Tibet and live there.” – this is one of the first statements he said to us. He went on to say that…
The current generation has a stronger bond with the Dalai Lama because his increased visibility makes younger generations feel more comfortable than past generations in his presence. Because of this the younger generations feels more comfortable disagreeing with him. I believe he is Bodhisattva, but Bodhisattva is not a good foreign policy. Ideally it would be, if countries were friendlier with each other.
He sacrificed a six-month trip to Tibet that he had planning for a number of years in order to protest the Olympic torch going through the Everest camp. He went on to say, “Tibet will be free in my lifetime.”
Tibet is a faith-based culture. “There is not a lot of effort put toward thinking rationally. Some support the middle way because it’s the strategy of HH. Other support it because they believe independence is not possible. Some support the middle way and then join a protest for an independent Tibet.
Autonomy is a complex arrangement between oppressor and the oppressed. The nature of autonomy is you must negotiation with your oppressor. The same thing happened in 1951. China abused the 17-point agreement. It did not honor the negotiation. The middle way is based on trusting someone who has already betrayed you many time. The strategy should be to raise the cost for the Chinese staying in Tibet so it will become too expensive for them to continue to stay. And we should make them lose face).
Q: The Tibet cause is quite sheik in America. What should Americans actually do to support Tibet?
A: “Nothing lasts in America for very long – supporting Tibet was sheik in the 90’s, stopped in 2001 or 2002. People who joined the cause during those years are in it for the long haul. The difference between American public support and American Governmnet support for Tibet is that the U.S. Government has done relatively a lot, which is sad because it’s still not much. However, according to a CNN poll, over 80% of Americans believes that should be free. The U.S. mostly funds Tibetan groups. For example, it gives about 15 Fulbright scholarships. They awarded the peace prize to HH. Many people say its peanuts and not all that effective. Many Tibetans fly the U.S. flag in Tibet because 1) it’s illegal to fly the Tibetan flag. To them the U.S. flag represents freedom. 2) People believe Congress really supports Tibet (possibly because China Government is a ribber stamp so they believe U.S. Government always supports Congress. 3) It pisses Chinese off became many Chinese do not like the U.S. Government.”
Q: What are the methods you would use to carry out your strategy of making Chinese occupation in Tibet too costly?
A: “’Strategy’ has been missing from Tibetan discourse. Faith is the main driving force. They think…if you keep walking in the dark, you’ll get somewhere. Grandy strategy is to make the cost of occupying Tibet too expensive relative to the benefit the Chinese get from occupation. Tactics include: social pressure, economic pressure and political pressure. Within a year we will publish a document that explains tactics/strategy well. No Losar movement threw Chinese off. They tried to force Tibetans to look happy for the world. Often non-violence towards celebrating culture. Not celebrating the culture confused the system. “
Q: What will be the role of technology in your efforts?
A: “Major developments include mobiles and computers. Older Tibetans used to think technology would distract from Dharma pursuits. Technology may be our savior. It definitely changed the landscape of the movement. We spend 17/18 hours online a day. But in the struggle – it’s making a huge difference. ‘Voice of America’ and ‘Radio Free Asia’ are the best U.S. contributors. Mountain dwellers are often the more informed than people in live in urban areas because they sit and listen to the radio all day.
On Buddhism…
“People talk about Karma when they feel totally helpless – when it seems there is nothing to do. With regard to Buddhism…there are so many things that are good and so many things that are useless. But it’s important to remember…no effort in this world is wasted.”
Dalai Lama @ Gaggle airport
The Dalai Lama flew into Gaggle airport on March 2nd. The entire school of Sarah Institute of Buddhist Dialectics walked to the airport (a little over two miles away) in order to greet him. This is not the first time that the school has cancelled/suspended classes in hopes of students / teachers / administrators getting a glimpse of the Dalai Lama. A couple of weeks ago our Tibetan language teacher told us that the Dalai Lama was coming down the hill from McLeoud Ganj on his way to the airport. (This was when he went to a Delhi hospital because of a pinched nerve in his arm). The entire school suspended class and ran down the hill to meet His Holiness. Everyone had katas to greet him. People picked flowers and started a large flame to burn incense. We waited for about forty five minutes when apparently someone received a text from the other side of the mountain – the side the Dalai Lama used. Everyone walked back up the hill in a large cloud of disappointment. I couldn’t help but wonder why he couldn’t at least be sure to drive by this side of the mountain…the side that has a school dedicated to him and a shrine built to worship him. The degree of happiness that a large number of people in the school would get from seeing him is probably too large to describe. And he can’t drive by for people to see him wave out the window? Despite this unfortunate event…the entire school walked in the heat for hopes of even one look at their leader.
Everyone lined the entrance to the airport. Members of the school had prepared dances and songs and wore traditional Tibetan dress to show their respect. I walked to the front entrance of the airport with a friend because we thought that’s where we had the highest chance of getting a good luck at the Dalai Lama…and perhaps even a handshake (fingers crossed).
There were armed guards at the entrance along with a few high-ranking monks of various sects. It was quite a peculiar juxtaposition – men carrying machine guns standing next to a number of people who have dedicated their lives to seeking peace, love, and compassion. We waited for about thirty minutes. Photojournalists began to claim their spots in front of the doorway to the airport – the place through which the Dalai Lama was supposedly going to walk. After a few minutes there was some commotion and the men with cameras starting becoming a bit aggressive and asking the monks to move out of the way. I was a bit offended…but I was also frustrated because these men were beginning to crowd me out of the spot that I had essentially claimed much earlier so that I could get some good pictures of the Dalai Lama. Turns out…I would love to be an Indian photojournalist. I began to elbow my way into the crowd – finding it quite easy to reclaim the spot I had lost. People began yelling and shouting questions for His Holiness to answer about Losar and Uprising Day. The pictures I was able to take are available in the gallery.
The Dalai Lama spent only a matter of seconds answering the questions…suggesting that Tibetans must remain calm. He then entered a car that was waiting for him. The prime minister of Tibet, Samdong Rinpoche, was waiting for him in the car. The car drove off as Tibetans who had lined the airport offered their katas, danced, and sang. Most people were lucky to see the Dalai Lama through the closed window of the car. Once the car had disappeared into the distance – they began to walk over two miles back to school in the heat. For many of them…this was the best thing that happened to them since the last time they were able to see the Dalai Lama.
No Losar / Buddhism as Religion
Yesterday ended the last day of the hunger strike that took place in Upper Dharamsala. The Tibetan Youth Congress organized a protest that included a 50-person three-day fast and a march through Mcloud Ganj on the second day (February 26th). The demonstration was to protest the Chinese occupation of Tibet and pay respects to the Tibetans who died last year during all of the riots and demonstrations. (pictures available in gallery). There was also a picture of Chinese President Hu Jintao at which protestors threw their shoes.
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Uprising Day when Tibetans unsuccessfully tried to rise against the Chinese occupation of Tibet on March 10, 1959. In response to this anniversary – China has already closed off sections of Tibet to tourists. It makes sense given the actions that Chinese take inside of and around TAR. For example, according to the Tibet Sun, an online newspaper, “Tibetan youth, 24-year-old Pema Tsepak, reportedly died on 23 January due to torture by Chinese police after he, and two others, publicly called for no Losar celebrations in Chamdo in eastern Tibet. All three held Tibetan national flags during their demonstration.” Also, one monk was reportedly shot by Chinese soldiers in Amdo after he set himself on fire to protest Chinese rule in Tibet. These are only a few of a relatively recent large-scale murder of innocent Tibetans.
I had the opportunity to speak with a woman who was imprisoned by the Chinese for nearly thirty years (name is being withheld for her protection) and according to her…the Chinese opened fire on peaceful Tibetans last year during Uprising Day. All of the dead and the injured were loaded into trucks and taken to a crematory – where their bodies (dead or alive) were cremated.
It is no wonder why so many Tibetans question “the middle way” approach of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The existence of deeply felt anger and a desire to react to such torture and horrendous action with violence seems highly reasonable – especially from a Western perspective where violent retaliation is simply a staple of foreign policy. It is a true indication of the Dalai Lama’s influence and the power of Buddhist faith that more Tibetan Buddhists have not resorted to violent aggression. It is important to note that the Dalai Lama has threatened to resign if Tibetans are as violent this Uprising Day as they were last year, which may explain why Tibetan(s) (Buddhists) do not act violently more often.
When you're in the middle of this...or at least much closer to it..."the middle path" becomes a really complicated...tragic...deeply admirable...confusing strategy. No matter one’s take on the middle path – it is very clear that what’s going in is wrong. It seems that everyone can agree on the presence of a problem, but the solution is another issue. I can only imagine what the response of the U.S. would be if one of our bordering countries entered our territory and opened fire on our innocent citizens and proceeded to take the injured to a crematorium in order to burn them alive. Perhaps we would go on another quest for oil? Whatever our response was…it’s clear that such an event would cause massive media coverage. Certainly…Tibet has received a lot of coverage with regard to Chinese occupation – especially last year during the Olympics. However, more needs to be done. Innocent people are being murdered by our largest importer. One could argue that our money is going to help fund the soldiers who killed innocent Tibetans. But even if one agrees with that logic…an appropriate responsive action is quite complicated. The Dalai Lama does not support a boycott of Chinese products because it is against the Buddhist faith to bring harm to anyone and a boycott would probably cause innocent Chinese people harm. So again…what to do?
I was talking to my roommate here at Sarah campus about a week ago. He’s training to be a teacher and I have committed to join Teach For America. We were pondering the ability of education to help the Tibetan cause. Of course this is a very broad topic of discussion, but we were mostly concerned with what would happen if Tibetans could produce some kind of technology or resource that China needed. It seems right now that most of Tibet’s bargaining power with China (if existent at all) – comes from the support of other more powerful nations – nations that have resources on which China is dependent. If China were dependent on Tibet…imagine how that could tip the scale.
We’re certainly not the only ones who have considered the Tibet issue through an education lens. Yesterday our group had a private audience with Rinpoche Dema Lochoe who told us that one productive way we could adopt Buddhism to our lives as students without actually being Buddhists is to feel as though we are studying for the benefit of all sentient beings. The main message of his talk was for us to study hard. This was a slightly different message than we had been receiving during other audiences – where we were often told to spread information concerning Tibet. For instance, Palden Gyatso specifically told me and others in our study group that we should tell as many people as we can about the movement to free Tibet. But this Rinpoche’s message was slightly different. I’m sure he also wants us to spread information regarding Tibet…but what he was most clear about was our ability to help everyone (not just Tibetans) through our studies. (One should keep in mind that Buddhism considers everything to be interconnected and interdependent…so by helping others who are not Tibetans…we are also helping Tibetans). With this in mind…it is my own humble opinion as an outsider that one of the best things we can do to help the Tibetan cause is to learn and seek understanding. Perhaps this could prove fruitful in finding a common ground with the Chinese.
“Buddhism Is Not a Philosophy – It Is a Religion”
Tibetan Buddhism is absolutely a religion – with the same radical followers, blind faith, and a desire to not question – just like many other religions. I met Rinpoche Tai situ at Sherab Ling monastery. During a private audience with our study group…he told us a number of useful things…like making the most out of everyday. He told us that we should do things, “not tomorrow…nor the day after, but now.” I was especially grateful to receive this advice because a number of criticisms I have heard concerning Buddhism addresses how belief in reincarnation can act as an excuse to lead an apathetic life in which there is no sense of urgency since one literally has all the time in the world (as many lifetimes as it takes) to accomplish something useful. However, he also told us some very strange things about putting large solar panels at the north and south poles so they could help prevent climate change…ignoring the fact that such a plan would have major detrimental environmental effects. He also said we should use airplanes once a day to clean all of the pollution and smog out of the atmosphere, which would be very cost-ineffective with regard to actually reducing the levels of pollutants in the air. He went on to discuss his surprise at how people have not listened to these ideas…suggesting that it is in people’s self interest to not listen to his solutions in order to secure their jobs. For instance…if we eliminate climate change…people working towards preventing global warming will lose their jobs.
Maybe this kind of religious leader is an exception…but it seems strange to offer this person so much reverence when his ideas are ludicrous and he is weird. He also insulted Indian food during our audience (suggesting that it looks like “dog vomit”). He belittled Islam as a simple, error-ridden religion with people worshiping to “some man in the clouds with a long beard”. This is the same kind of ignorance and close-mindedness that I have experienced with other religious institutions. People learn from this man…and they’re happy about it. I can’t believe it. Because so many people respect him…his ideas seem to never be questioned. A number of his students testified to us about how helpful he was and how he had enabled them to see things differently (incorrectly?). This situation was especially troubling because the Buddha himself said that we should examine his teachings as we would a piece of gold – being sure to scrutinize every component.
This is not to say that the religious fervor that is definitely present in Buddhism counteracts the large number of wonderful things that Buddhism can offer to non-believers. I won’t discuss this much right now…but meditation is an amazing practice that has improved the quality of my life a great deal. There are a number of different meditations that one can do to relax and find clarity. I suggest researching these online. My personal favorite meditation thus far is to sit down in the meditative position (legs crossed with your back straight) and imagine that you are inhaling a black smoke (suffering of the world) and exhaling a vibrant gold light (peace you send to help those who are suffering).
Delhi to Dharamsala (backdated entries)
Backdated Entries:
January 14th (8 pm CMT)
The plane ride to India is the color of 80’s dance clubs – with pink and blue neon lights that line the upper left and right hand ceiling edges of the plane. The 12-hour flight is full of men with turbans. Everyone is quite nice and social – with men passing around extra airplane meals and women tending to each other’s children. Almost everyone seems to be frustrated with the movie screens on our chairs – as they tap the unresponsive screens mercilessly. Selection ranges from Hindi “late” and “classic” to English “late” and “classic”. One of the men in the turbans started singing as I browsed the movie choices. Perhaps it was in Hindi – perhaps it was religious song. I was clueless, but it was uniquely charming – and occasionally melodious. Still trying to decide on a movie and struggling with the supposedly touch-sensitive screen…one of the stewardesses approached me and presented me with dinner choices. Unfortunately…I couldn’t understand her. When I thought I heard her say “chicken” – I said “yes”. I think it was supposed to be the “American choice” for dinner…apparently there was also an “Indian” choice, which appeared to be some kind of curry. It looked better than my chicken, which was some kind of Indian airline take on chicken medallions with zucchini, tomatoes, corn, and potatoes. Next time…I’ll know better. Fortunately, the rice pudding was scrumptious.
The movie I finally picked is called “Taare Zameen Par” – or in English – “Every Child Is Special”. It’s a fantastic movie about a dyslexic child who finds liberation from his stifling teachers and traditional school system by meeting an open-minded teacher who is able to identify with the child because he has been able to overcome the hindrances of his own dyslexia.
My movie was occasionally interrupted by various announcements about not standing in the aisles due to a relatively high degree of turbulence. I’m reminded of the safety video we watched at the beginning of the flight – where the virtual depictions of women included comically large breasts. The things a 21-year old male notices on a journey to find himself…here’s to adventure and understanding.
January 16th – 7:42 am (India time)
I slept on rocks – the hardest mattress in my life. Imagine a very large, lumpy brick and you have imagined my mattress at the YMCA hostel in Delhi. Not drinking the water continues to be a challenge – brushing our teeth with tap water and closing our mouths the entire time in the shower. The food, however, is superb. Last night we had naan, chicken, and and dahl – all quite spicy. It was perfect. I hope all my meals taste so good – though I must admit my standards are quite low after enduring food at the “ratty” – the nickname lovingly given to my cafeteria at school (Brown University in Providence, Rhode Island) – for three and a half years. Today promised to be good with breakfast (more food!), a visit to a Sikh temple, garden, and Indian dance performance. I am becoming increasingly worriedabout my weight – as people from the program have repeatedly told me that healthy, relatively large males typically lose 30 pounds. I asked the monk I had dinner with last night (Geshe La, a name that many highly learned monks go by) about the availability of protein powder – among many other inquiries. He told me that there was probably some available in Dharamsala – where a new health store had apparently been recently opened. I also asked about the journey he took from Tibet to Dharamsala when he was 5. He went only a few months after the Dalai Lama took the trip. Geshe La is captivating – fitted with the polite, frequent, delightful chuckle that seems characteristic of so many Tibetan Buddhist monks.
January 17th (10:35 pm Delhi time)
I was told today that I may have to leave the group to obtain a check on my Visa – as I have the only Visa in the group that tells me to check in at Delhi instead of Dharamsala. Adventure awaits…
The trek to the immigration office was long, enlightening, and productive. Karma (one of the group organizers – the secretary for Sarah Institute of Buddhist Dialectics) and I took an auto rickshaw (you can see photos of these small green and yellow vehicles in the gallery) to A.I.A.S. – where a very helpful man and his driver took us to the New Delhi immigration office. There was quite a line – and to ge in I had to show my passport and sign a book. I actually signed in the wrong place and the guard snapped at me. It was a bit funny – this gruff-looking solider upset about the neatness of his makeshift journal. Thankfully, I was successful in not letting out an audible chuckle. Once inside, we waited until 1:30 – about half an hour – when everyone cleared the building for lunch. Everyone left – eating with a roadside vendor or from thermoses from their cars packed with dahl and naan. It was refreshing, though my western orientation was fueling anziety within me about registering my Visa successfully. Everyone joked and laughed outside the office, forgetting about the business at hand and prioritizing breaking bread with both friends and strangers. A few minutes before 2 – everyone headed back in. After a long wait - I was finally called to the front where a seemingly tired and frustrated lady quickly brushed through my papers and stamped my Visa. After a warm embrace, I parted with my helpful A.I.A.S. comrade. Karma and I proceeded to get some food. I was hungry because he didn’t think my Western stomach could handle the roadside vendors – I trusted him.
After some chicken masala and a couple of auto rickshaw rides across town – we were able to catch up with the group – see an Indian and Tibetan dance performance – and exchange adventures of the day over dinner back at the hostel. A few of us agreed to wake up early so we could leave the hostel by 4 am to attend a 4:30 am Sikh service at a temple just up the block from where we were staying. The poverty we encountered in that short walk was extraordinary – with young boys and girls around five or six huddling around fires in trashcan barrels in attempt to shield themselves from the fifty degree morning temperatures of Delhi.
The temple itself was beautiful – with sounds of Indian Sikhs praying in song that radiated across the dust-covered streets. The temple was all white (available to view in the gallery) and had a water fountain to wash our feet before walking up the steps to the temple. The service consisted of men and women listening to one man who was singing in the center of the temple. (The only other male in the group and I had to cover our heads with bright cloth available at the front of the temple – as all people in the temple are expected to cover their head). We stayed for about 20 minutes before walking out to the water section of the temple (available to see in the gallery) – where people would rinse their feet and faces.
One man approached and asked where we were from. After I said we flew in from New York City, he handed me a letter to give to the U.N. Office – making me assure him that I wouldn’t hand his letter over the “corrupt Indian Government”.
Later that day we were able to see the Dalai Lama speak at an event in Central Delhi – where he spoke abut the necessity of compassion. This was the first time I had ever seen the Dalai Lama in person. He waddled in from one side of the stage…slowly with his head bowed. (pictures available in gallery)
After wondering through a mental state of awe after the Dalai Lama spoke…a few of us went to Old Delhi for some exploring (pictures available in gallery). Walking around this are of Delhi reminded me of a number of the border towns in Mexico. There were dilapidated buildings, unpaved roads, and beggars galore. Bargaining is a must in the shops. Apparently…a decent strategy is to offer half the price quoted to you in Delhi and work your way up from there – threatening to walk away once you get close to the maximum amount you’d like to pay.
Jan 20th
The night before we left Delhi for Judge’s Court in Pragpur, I began to feel ill. I developed a sore throat before going to sleep. I wasn’t too worried – hoping I would sleep it off on the 12-hour bus ride. However, I had not been able to completely convince myself that staring out the bus window would be a less attractive option than sleeping off my potential cold. I woke up at 4 am to shower and collect all of my things before walking downstairs to eat breakfast with the group and brace myself for the epic trip across unpaved roads in a foreign land, where every single place I turned inevitably produced an endlessly captivating site. Many times in the preceding days I caught myself staring at the most “normal” scenes: cars driving by on the highway, people buying food at stores, dogs walking on the sidewalk. I had seen all of these in the U.S. many times before. Nonetheless, it was all incredibly unfamiliar, and I couldn’t peel my eyes from anything. It was for this reason that I suspected I might be misleading myself regarding my ability to sleep off my sore throat on the bus.
After we ate and discussed our expectations for the trip to Pragpur and what we speculated was to be a very comfortable stay at Judge’s Court, a World Heritage Site, (a very welcome change from the high degree of activity and smog that engulfed all things Delhi) we set out for the road. Driving from the YMCA to Pragpur began as something that seemed out of science fiction movie. It was dark outside. The highway was small, and the surrounding buildings and construction made the entire ordeal seem as though this place had just endured an alien invasion. People congregated around garbage bins where they had set fires to keep warm in the early morning amidst the backdrop of sporadically thrown metal and concrete columns that were apparently intended to help aid in the completion of the highway, but ultimately, at least for the time being, only helped to convey an atmosphere of some kind of futuristic post-war scene, as if out of Terminator 2.
We drove until the urban street scenes of Delhi transition into rural countryside. There were gas stations with teenager attendants. It was very reminiscent of small towns in Texas, with tractors parked in large fields being prepared for harvesting. Immediately it became obvious that this was the kind of place where almost everyone knew everyone else. People in cars would wave out the window as they passed other vehicles and pedestrians. This was a stark contrast to Delhi, which was much more characteristic of the urban sprawl found in Los Angeles.
We pulled over at a gas station for a bathroom break. One notable difference between gas stations right outside of Delhi and in the U.S. is that these gas stations are almost never attached to a convenient store. You can stop for gas, directions, and perhaps some help with very light automobile assistance. However, if you want chips or a soda…you’re out of luck. Though, there are quite a large number of tea stands along the road where you can get chai, snacks, such as Masala-flavor Lay’s potato chips – one of my personal favorites.
Upon trying to use the men’s restroom, the four of us made the sad realization that someone had either taken up shelter in the restroom and was living the life of a hermit – refusing to share his good fortune of a hole in the ground with us, or that the men’s bathroom was simply locked and could not be opened. We tried asking one of the attendants about using the restroom, but we could not overcome the language barrier. The Buddhist monk that was traveling with us also needed to use the restroom. Upon seeing him walk to the back of the gas station where the bathroom was located, one of the guys said, “Oh good. You know he’s gonna use magic to open that shit.” The sleep deprivation, the increasing need to urinate, and the well-timed humor resulted in a jubilant formula of guffaws. Unfortunately, the monk was not able to “use magic to open that shit.” So...left with nothing else, we hopped the fence behind the gas station and used that as our restroom – right in front of the girls who were waiting for their turn inside the women’s restroom. It was quite an interesting juxtaposition, between the four of us urinating on the fence in front of about ten girls between the ages of 20 and 21, our female professor, and a monastic Tibetan Buddhist monk. It was certainly the most thought-provoking yellow stream of relief I have ever experienced.
We continued driving, stopping at tea stands along the way for Indian chai, bread, and cookies. The 12-hour ride was long and my throat continued to hurt more and more. We drove by small towns with lines of tiny store fronts that extended for miles. We saw many more small businesses than houses. Though, the houses we did see were not quite what many Westerners would consider a “house”. People live in tiny buildings that lack any real shelter from the elements. Essentially, these residences are comprised of strips of discarded sheet metal or plywood what is rested against one another to form some resemblance of walls. On top of these walls rests another layer of sheet metal or plywood to serve as a roof. Across all of these houses are long strands of clothes that have been hung up to dry in the sun. If communities are fortunate enough to have running water, they certainly do not have access to dryers. Most people wash their clothes in a bucket and then proceed to dry the clothes on a line.
Eventually the scenery of people began to look the same. There were sporadic groups of Sikhs (the guys with the turbans), some Indian guards at checkpoints, and lots of Indians who wore a Western style of dress – often sporting slacks and a shirt or a blouse (depending on whether or not the person is male or female). There were of course a few people in traditional Indian clothing, but these were among the minority of people that we encountered.
As night began to fall the Indian starry sky revealed itself to us. We peered out from the bus windows to view a deep black sky that was completely littered with stars. It looked as though we were driving around a large planetarium. It seemed possible to make out the fold of the Earth by seeing the ways the stars fell across the night sky and reflected their light back at us. The scene was absolutely breathtaking. We stopped for a bathroom break and to get a better glimpse of the stars. The monk who was traveling with us told us that the night sky at Sarah, where we were headed, looked even more impressive. I didn’t believe him; it seemed impossible for any night sky to be more impressive. Trying to take in every second of the stars– while trying to ignore the pain in my neck and throat from looking straight up for such a long time, I reluctantly made my way back on to the bus. A large number of the people began to sing Disney songs, Beatles, and a wide array of recent top 40 hits. I tried to smile and nod in approval as I struggled to not let my throat get the best of me, which was really hurting by this point.
We got to Judge’s Court about an hour later, where we saw beautiful architecture. It was an old Indian hotel tucked into a small village in Himachal Pradesh. A lot of renovations were going on – at least it seemed this was the case since the building we were staying in was full of construction materials and sawdust. However, our rooms were beautiful. And compared to Delhi, the showers were palaces, which really just means that they were very clean and had hot water.
I had a quick dinner with the rest of the group – sticking to the Dahl since it felt good on my sore throat. There was a quick toast to Bush’s last day in office and Obama’s inauguration. After drinking a few sips of water in honor of the new President, I hurried off to bed. It was in that bed where I thought I might die – the first American casualty of the trip. I slept that night, the entire day after, and the following night. I had a fever that was slightly above 102. I was scared. I was away from every single person I knew, without a modern hospital in site, and here I was – as sick as I had ever been in my life. I thought…well this is it. Everyone who told me not to come to India was right. They said I would die…and sure enough…I will. This is the end. At least I get to die a world traveler I thought. Of course, a lot of this self-imposed melodrama was for my entertainment. I didn’t really think I would die, but I was very worried. My anxiety about the trip had recently skyrocketed. The fact that I abandoned my final semester at Brown, which should be full of parties and friends – the time of my life – for this land of cold showers, no family, friends, or girlfriend, or protein…had finally hit me. And on top of it…I had a terrible fever, a very unfamiliar sickness. I never get sick. This was a bad omen. I was sure.
After approaching complete death and sleeping for approximately 36 hours, I was healthy enough to take a shower and stumble down to the main dining hall for breakfast. Auspiciously, I was greeted by cheers and a bombardment of questions concerning my health. I mustered up a smile and a friendly voice – trying to ignore the remaining soreness in my throat. I was given some grapefruit seed extract for my throat. It is most definitely the worst tasting thing in the world. I’m pretty sure this must be scientific fact. I was able to eat some eggs…and I tried getting on the internet with everyone else who had congregated at the main building where we had wireless. I was able to get online for a bit and confirm to some friends that I had been accepted into TFA- Dallas. I learned this the night before by checking my email from my phone. I had no clue if I wanted to commit to TFA or not – law school was another major option weighing on my mind. I was quite torn – and in the middle of India…having just gotten over a terrible fever…I had slightly less than one week to decide. After a few minutes of catching up with friends and surfing the web it was time for us to load up the jeeps that would take us to our final destination, Sarah Institute of Buddhist Dialectics.
The two jeeps were quite rugged-looking. The trip from Pragpur to Dharamsala is relatively short – approximately two hours in length. This, however, was not the sci-fi fantasy trip that I had experienced traveling by bus from Delhi in the early morning. The air here was extremely clean, the polar opposite of the smog and dirt that engulfed Delhi. The two-hour drive was comprised entirely of driving up the bumpy, gravel-infused face of a mountain. We drove over massive cliffs, seeing monkeys run across the road and people wash their clothes in buckets all along the way. With every curve of the mountain, the drivers would hunk to warn any other cars who happened to be on the other side of the blind turn. Every turn was of course a blind turn and the “roads” were only wide enough for one vehicle to pass. Along the way we studied the Tibetan alphabet, but had to stop after only a few minutes because a large number of people in our jeep began to feel motion sickness.
Eventually we arrived at Sarah. The entrance to the school is a tiny side street off the main road. We drove up a short little hill and were greeted by a small number of monastic Tibetan Buddhist monks who were dressed in the traditional maroon garments. They all greeted us with warm smiles and katas, a white scarf that is traditionally given to guests in India. We were immediately invited into the kitchen where we were given green vegetables – the first any of us had encountered since we left home, with the exception of some saag paneer sprinkled throughout our dining experiences in Delhi and Pragpur. We then took a tour of the very small school. There is a guy’s dorm, a girl’s dorm, a library, cafeteria, temple, and of the guest house in which we had just eaten our meal.
After the tour…we met our roommates. All of the male roommates are in the teacher training program to become teachers. This was incredibly appropriate for me since I was weighing the pros and cons of TFA at the time. After meeting my roommate and talking a bit about where I would sleep (a cot on the opposite corner of the room…it wasn’t a very long conversation) I laid down for a quick nap because I was still feeling rather tired and a bit sick. My roommate had left for a quick meeting. When he came back I was fast asleep, but his entrance woke me up and we decided to have chai in the canteen near the front of the school. After tea…we went back to the room and organized some of my belongings. I also gave him a few gifts that I brought from Texas. I gave him a calendar of famous Texas sights, like the riverwalk in San Antonio. I also gave him some Texas wildflower seeds, a Texas postcard, and a deck of Texas playing cards. I was a bit surprised when he did not open any of these in front of me. He took them from me, said thank you…and brushed them aside. I tried not to think too much of it, but I assumed he did not like the gifts at all. We talked a bit longer and I left the room to meet up with some of the other people from the program. Dinner time was approaching.
When I returned from dinner, my roommate had opened the deck of cards and had placed the calendar on the wall. He pointed to the calendar and said he had put it up. He seemed quite happy about it, so I was very much confused at that point concerning what he actually thought of the gifts.
(later on during a meditation with Ani-la, I would learn that Tibetans consider acting surprised and very grateful for presents as an act of selfishness because it implies that they want more. Rather…they say thank you for the gift and act uninterested- only to open the gift later once the giver has left their presence.)
Welcome
